Synthetic Or Human? The Art Of Testing Hair Authenticity

ing a microscopic test to ascertain the chemicalIt is prudent to make separate fiber tests given that
composition of a strand of extension hair is aa piece may have a blend of synthetic and human
clear-cut way of confirming the fakeness or realnesshair.
of the product. The majority of us are unfortunatelyHow light affects hair selection
not holders of a forensic science degree and coupledOne question that is normally posed by many
with the fact that a microscope is not a householdhair-buying customers has to do with the
item the aforementioned test is therefore not such aproduct’s shininess, a trait that many attribute
feasible option.to high quality, compared to ordinary scalp hair.
In the textile industry the ‘fiber burn’ testMajority of the salons which purport to sell cuticle or
is conducted to ascertain fiber content. The samevirgin hair are indeed ethical but a slight percentage
principle can effectively be used for hair tests asare confirmed to offer customers non-cuticle
follows:manufactured hair after a microscope test is
1. Pluck single hair strands from different locations ofconducted. Why does this fake product have more
the unit in doubtshine than normal hair? It all has to do with light
2. Using tweezers to grip a single strand proceed toreflection.
burn the same using a lighter’s steady flame.This schematic, (Csepluch, et al, J. Soc. Cosmet.
The use of matches is not applicable as this will coverChem., 44, 299 (1993), provides a good illustration of
the hair odor.the numerous angles that line the surface of a hair
3. You are to keenly observe the produced odor, thefiber. The cuticles which make an overlap open at a
embers and the burning flame.2-3% angle. It must also be taken into account that
Human hair fiber is protein in nature and will burn withall individual cuticles have uneven surfaces. You should
an unsteadily shining flame which will cease to burn ifalso appreciate that the angle at which a light ray
the lighter is held away from the hair strand. Thereflects off an object is the same one at which it hit
strand of hair will briefly burn, producing an orangethe object in the first place.
flame and dark ash chars that turn to powder uponGiven the cuticles’ uneven surfaces that all lay
being crushed. The nature of the odor produced isat an angle, thus creating multiple different angles,
akin to that of burning feathers or flesh.light reflects off these surfaces at equally multiple
Synthetic hair fibers may be of either polyester orangles. This effect is known as light scattering and
nylon and each of these will burn differently.only a few labs around the world have the capacity
Nylon fibers tend to burn rather briefly but hastilyto measure it.
before melting. The flame produced has a sparkle toThe fact that non-cuticle hair looks shinier than cuticle
it and an orange tip and blue base will be observed.hair may actually dupe you into thinking that the
The ash produced resembles tough amber beads.former is healthier — a mistaken conclusion
The smell of the odor feels similar to that producedarrived at thanks to a reflected light illusion. The
by burning celery or green vegetables on the boil.non-cuticle fiber of hair reflects off light from a
Polyester fibers will simultaneously burn and meltsurface that lacks the cuticle angles already described
quite speedily. The flame produced has an orange— this may be equated to the manner in
sputter and black smoke with a sweetish odorwhich a mirror causes light rays to bounce off. Look
follows. Drips of sticky ash are produced and uponat your desk surface and observe the amount of
cooling the ash takes the form of hard black beads.reflected light that bounces off its smooth surface.